When we woke up yesterday morning (at 10AM...guess jet lag is over!) the sky was gray and it was raining. We knew that this was bound to happen during our trip, because of the weather reports we checked before leaving, but rain definitely has a way of changing plans (picnic at the Eiffel Tower in the rain, anyone?). So we sat down to evaluate our options for the day, and agreed that it would be the perfect day for a museum. Well unfortunately for Parisian tourists on rainy Mondays, most museums in Paris are closed on Mondays. The only open museum (that I know of) is the Louvre. This makes Mondays (especially a rainy Monday) a really bad day to go to the Louvre, because everyone and their mother has had the same thought. But we ventured over there anyway, figuring that we could brave the crowds.
We were planning on getting a Carte Orange (weekly metro pass) for each of us on the way, so we stopped at the metro ticket window. The lady informed me that Cartes Oranges no longer exist (and haven't since January)!! For 1/2 a second I worried that we would be purchasing carnets of 10 metro tickets (from machines that don't take American credit cards) all week. But luckily, there's now a cooler, even more convenient option called the Navigo. This is a card with an implanted chip that allows you to simply place your purse or wallet on top of the chip-reader at the metro entrance, and open the gate. No more fiddling to take out the weekly metro ticket from your wallet, holding up the line of annoyed commuters gathering behind you. Purchasing the Navigo was quite an ordeal, with each of us needing to get new ID pictures, then cutting out the pictures and putting the packet of cards together. The process was made easier, though, by the amazing service we received from 2 French metro employees. I don't think I've ever received such help from metro employees before. They enthusiatically helped out at ever step, and even gave us some Paris maps/tourism ideas, and warned us to "watch out for pickpockets" (one piece of advice that's quickly becoming a theme among people wanting to help us out).
With our shiny new Navigos in hand, we swiped into the metro and headed toward "Palais Royale- Musee du Louvre." We quickly discovered that we were right in predicting that there would be crowds, but the line for tickets didn't end up taking too long. Plus, I got in for free because I'm still 25 and have a French ID!
I had warned Chris & Jessie that we shouldn't try to do the whole Louvre in one day, because we would be completely burned out and not really enjoy it. So we decided to see the Egyptian Antiquities, some Greco-Roman sculpture, the apartments of Napoleon III, and the must-see-while-you're-at-the-Louvre-just-so-you-can-say-you-did Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. All in all, it was a great visit! Once you're out of the lobby, you realize how gigantic the Louvre is, because you don't notice the crowds nearly as much (except around the Mona Lisa, where the amount of people is just crazy stupid). The Egyptians Antiquities were amazing, and we got to see a mummy. It was good to go back and experience another small chunk of the Louvre.
Afterward, we headed down the Avenue de l'Opera and stopped at Paul for a snack. Chris and Jessie (read, Jessie) ordered in French, which I think the waitress appreciated. We took our time and enjoyed the fact that you never feel like you're being rushed out in French cafes and restaurants. Then we continued walking toward the Opera, pointed out the famous "Cafe de la Paix" to Chris & Jessie, and kept going toward the Galleries Lafayettes-Maison. I wanted to show them the cool escalator with LEDs in it, designed by Ingo Maurer. Plus, I got to peruse all of the gorgeous textiles and table settings.
After picking out a set of 2 cute napkins I plan to use for my food blog photos, we headed underground to take the metro home. First, though, we stopped at La Grande Epicerie to get some wine and cheese for an "apero." Chris & Jessie got to see another of my favorite stores in Paris, and we all got to enjoy a 2002 Bordeaux (for 8 Euros...gotta love French wine!) and some tasty cheese. Finally, around 9:30pm, we figured it was about time to get ready to go out for dinner and headed down the street to a local restaurant called Oudinot- a regular spot of Trevor and mine when we come to visit. Once again, the service was incredible, the house wine was good, and the food was delicious. Chris and Jess generously invited us as a thank you for letting them stay with us (though "letting them" just doesn't sound quite right when we're enjoying their company so much). Thank you Chris & Jessie!
Once again, we had a great day! And I'm so so so pleased that all of our interactions with Parisians have been so incredibly positive. People often ask me if they should worry about being treated rudely by Parisians when they travel here, and it's always great to have examples of the stereotype being proven wrong! ...and now...off to enjoy the city.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Monday, June 15, 2009
Walking a 5k in Paris
It's a beautiful Tuesday morning in Paris. That means we've been here now for 3 full days, and my have they been FULL! (In a great way, though!) In fact, I'm going to have to divide up the last 2 days into separate posts, so as to not write one long, completely overwhelming post.
Sunday morning, our good friends, Chris and Jessie, flew in from San Diego! They made it from the airport to the apartment on the RER (i.e. train) all by themselves ("Comme des grands"). They even started out with a positive Parisian vibe from a nice man who helped translate the RER announcements along the way. Before Chris and Jessie arrived, we weren't sure how long they would make it the first day. Their plane came in at 7:30am, which is a long time to stay awake when you have a 9 hour time difference on top of a long flight. We started their trip off with a walking tour (lead by us) from the apartment, to the Invalides, then along the Seine, across to the the right bank, to the Place de la Concorde, through the Jardin des Tuilleries, to the Louvre, then to the Marais, and then all the way back. We estimated 3-4 miles total of walking. Not bad for a first day! Along the way, we took some pictures!
We walked from the Place de la Concorde and headed right through the Jardin des Tuileries. This is a beautiful park between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. If you extend a straight line past the Concorde, you hit the Champs Elysee and l'Arc de Triomphe. After strolling through the park, we arrived at the Louvre. As many times as I've seen the Louvre and its Pyramide, it never ceases to impress me. It's hard to capture a good photo with so many people around, but I tried.
Pyramide du Louvre
Feeling revived, we continued our walk, down the Rue de Rivoli. We ended up at the Centre Pompidou, which is where my mom worked when my parents met (dad was at IRCAM). The Centre Pompidou is a crazy-looking building, but I didn't get a picture of it, because it was just way too crowded and I was a bit nervous about getting my camera out. Just around the corner from the Centre Pompidou is a series of interesting fountains. They're designed by the same person who made the Sun God at UCSD, which Chris & Jessie guessed as soon as they saw them.
After viewing the cool fountains, we headed over to the Marais (finally!) for lunch. By this time it was about 2:30pm and we were ready for lunch. Trevor and I have a Sunday tradition (when we're in Paris) of getting take out falafel in the Marais and bringing it to a nearby park. The reason for this is that, France being a Catholic country, everything in Paris is closed on Sundays. Some restaurants are open, but most neighborhoods are pretty deserted. So if you want to be where the action is, you have to go to the Marais (the Jewish neighborhood) on Sundays. It's amazing how many people are there...the streets are not technically pedestrian, and some cars try to drive through, but there are always crowds of people who pour onto the streets, walking and riding their bikes. The falafel place we love is called L'As du Falafel, and it's amazing. I found it back when I was studying abroad in Paris, and it immediately became a regular spot. Back then, the line was reasonable. However, the restaurant's popularity has been steadily increasing after rave reviews from the likes of the New York Times. The line when we arrived at 3pm was 1/2 a block down the street. The poor falafel competitor across the street had an embarrassingly short line in comparison. Hands down, it's delicious.
After enjoying our falafel we headed home, full and happy, and relaxed for a while. Chris and Jessie were quite impressive, and stayed up until 11:15pm...I'm not sure how they pulled that off (super powers?), but they'll have to share that secret themselves on Jessie's blog.
Sunday morning, our good friends, Chris and Jessie, flew in from San Diego! They made it from the airport to the apartment on the RER (i.e. train) all by themselves ("Comme des grands"). They even started out with a positive Parisian vibe from a nice man who helped translate the RER announcements along the way. Before Chris and Jessie arrived, we weren't sure how long they would make it the first day. Their plane came in at 7:30am, which is a long time to stay awake when you have a 9 hour time difference on top of a long flight. We started their trip off with a walking tour (lead by us) from the apartment, to the Invalides, then along the Seine, across to the the right bank, to the Place de la Concorde, through the Jardin des Tuilleries, to the Louvre, then to the Marais, and then all the way back. We estimated 3-4 miles total of walking. Not bad for a first day! Along the way, we took some pictures!
Here's one of Chris, Jessie & Trevor on a bridge crossing the Seine.
And here is a bateau mouche chugging along the Seine, heading toward the Palais Royale.
Here's the view of the Place de la Concorde from the bridge.
We walked from the Place de la Concorde and headed right through the Jardin des Tuileries. This is a beautiful park between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde. If you extend a straight line past the Concorde, you hit the Champs Elysee and l'Arc de Triomphe. After strolling through the park, we arrived at the Louvre. As many times as I've seen the Louvre and its Pyramide, it never ceases to impress me. It's hard to capture a good photo with so many people around, but I tried.
One section of one wing of the Palais du Louvre...and a couple walking by
Pyramide du Louvre
Section of the Palais du Louvre
Part of an arc across the street from the Louvre.
After heading by the Louvre, we needed a little boost, so we stopped at a cafe and ordered some beers. Jessie had a Coca-Cola and it "changed her life." She could tell that French coke was different from American Coke (it's because high fructose corn syrup is banned here, so they use regular sugar...just like the old school American Coke).
Feeling revived, we continued our walk, down the Rue de Rivoli. We ended up at the Centre Pompidou, which is where my mom worked when my parents met (dad was at IRCAM). The Centre Pompidou is a crazy-looking building, but I didn't get a picture of it, because it was just way too crowded and I was a bit nervous about getting my camera out. Just around the corner from the Centre Pompidou is a series of interesting fountains. They're designed by the same person who made the Sun God at UCSD, which Chris & Jessie guessed as soon as they saw them.
Here is the really Sun God-looking one, from behind
This bird (?) spins around on a vertical axis. I was happy to have a camera where I could adjust the shutter speed to capture this one!
This was supposed to be of Chris, Jessie & Trevor...but apparently something in the sky was more interesting to Trevor than being in the picture.
Just Chris & Jess
Trevor in front of the lovely Parisian tagging
After viewing the cool fountains, we headed over to the Marais (finally!) for lunch. By this time it was about 2:30pm and we were ready for lunch. Trevor and I have a Sunday tradition (when we're in Paris) of getting take out falafel in the Marais and bringing it to a nearby park. The reason for this is that, France being a Catholic country, everything in Paris is closed on Sundays. Some restaurants are open, but most neighborhoods are pretty deserted. So if you want to be where the action is, you have to go to the Marais (the Jewish neighborhood) on Sundays. It's amazing how many people are there...the streets are not technically pedestrian, and some cars try to drive through, but there are always crowds of people who pour onto the streets, walking and riding their bikes. The falafel place we love is called L'As du Falafel, and it's amazing. I found it back when I was studying abroad in Paris, and it immediately became a regular spot. Back then, the line was reasonable. However, the restaurant's popularity has been steadily increasing after rave reviews from the likes of the New York Times. The line when we arrived at 3pm was 1/2 a block down the street. The poor falafel competitor across the street had an embarrassingly short line in comparison. Hands down, it's delicious.
After enjoying our falafel we headed home, full and happy, and relaxed for a while. Chris and Jessie were quite impressive, and stayed up until 11:15pm...I'm not sure how they pulled that off (super powers?), but they'll have to share that secret themselves on Jessie's blog.
Saturday, June 13, 2009
First post to the new blog & Day 1 in Paris!
Good morning from Paris! As I mentioned on my other blog, I've had The Olsens blog name reserved for a while, knowing that we would probably want a family blog someday, when we had more time on our hands to update people on our (oh-so-interesting) lives. A (mostly) completed Master's degree & trip to Paris seemed like a perfect time to begin. During our trip, Trevor & I will be posting pictures and updates of our escapades. And after our trip...well let's not think about that yet. We've only just started it!
So we arrived in Paris yesterday around 11:15 AM (French time). The flight was pretty unremarkable, except that right after taking off from NYC (the second leg of the flight), we heard a strange noise followed by the sound of liquid streaming out of the plane. That was kind of disconcerting to hear right before flying over the Atlantic, and after a series of horrible plane crash stories in the news. But, the captain came on over the loudspeaker and sounded calm & pleasant, so I calmed down, and the rest of the flight went off without a hitch.
One way I like to entertain myself on the long plane ride to France is by confusing the flight attendants. I think they receive training on memorizing which language each passenger in their service area speaks. If the flight attendant is bilingual, he or she will switch between languages depending on which passenger they are addressing. It's quite impressive, really. Well when they get to me, they usually try English first. And that works. Then sometimes they try French, just to be sure. Well that works too. So then they decide that I must be a French person who took a lot of years of English classes in school (like all French people my age, since it's a high school graduation requirement). So they stick with French. Poor Trevor gets lumped in with me, so they speak to him in French too. And that works for a while. He gives them one word answers, and they don't notice. But finally, a question comes up that is longer than one word, and Trevor responds in English (although he's entirely capable of responding in French). Then the flight attendants try to hide their confusion and decide that we're impostors and speak to both of us in English for the rest of the trip.
Anyway...after the long trip, we decided to save about 40 Euros by taking the train into Paris rather than taking a taxi. We were excited to find out, after having gotten on the train, that it was going directly to Paris without stopping along the way. That cut a bunch of time and we were at the St-Michel stop in no time. After one switch to the 10 metro line, we arrived at Duroc, got off, and walked the last couple of blocks to the apartment.
We kept ourselves busy, fighting off the urge to curl up and fall asleep, by unpacking, doing some cleaning, going grocery shopping and having an early dinner.
Here are some of the things we brought back from our food-shopping excursion:
We ended up doing pretty well and managed to stay awake until 9:30pm. We both woke up at 2am, hoping it was already 5 or 6am, but fell back asleep until a respectable 7am (for me) and 8am (for Trevor). This morning, I decided to take some pictures of the apartment and the views from the apartment to share.
View from the kitchen:
Close-up of the Ministere de la France d'Outre-Mer:
So we arrived in Paris yesterday around 11:15 AM (French time). The flight was pretty unremarkable, except that right after taking off from NYC (the second leg of the flight), we heard a strange noise followed by the sound of liquid streaming out of the plane. That was kind of disconcerting to hear right before flying over the Atlantic, and after a series of horrible plane crash stories in the news. But, the captain came on over the loudspeaker and sounded calm & pleasant, so I calmed down, and the rest of the flight went off without a hitch.
One way I like to entertain myself on the long plane ride to France is by confusing the flight attendants. I think they receive training on memorizing which language each passenger in their service area speaks. If the flight attendant is bilingual, he or she will switch between languages depending on which passenger they are addressing. It's quite impressive, really. Well when they get to me, they usually try English first. And that works. Then sometimes they try French, just to be sure. Well that works too. So then they decide that I must be a French person who took a lot of years of English classes in school (like all French people my age, since it's a high school graduation requirement). So they stick with French. Poor Trevor gets lumped in with me, so they speak to him in French too. And that works for a while. He gives them one word answers, and they don't notice. But finally, a question comes up that is longer than one word, and Trevor responds in English (although he's entirely capable of responding in French). Then the flight attendants try to hide their confusion and decide that we're impostors and speak to both of us in English for the rest of the trip.
Anyway...after the long trip, we decided to save about 40 Euros by taking the train into Paris rather than taking a taxi. We were excited to find out, after having gotten on the train, that it was going directly to Paris without stopping along the way. That cut a bunch of time and we were at the St-Michel stop in no time. After one switch to the 10 metro line, we arrived at Duroc, got off, and walked the last couple of blocks to the apartment.
We kept ourselves busy, fighting off the urge to curl up and fall asleep, by unpacking, doing some cleaning, going grocery shopping and having an early dinner.
This is me fighting off sleep in the living room:
Here are some of the things we brought back from our food-shopping excursion:
Kiri, Camembert, Kiwi-flavored yogurt, fresh eggs, & le Viennois Cafe!
Dessert!
We ended up doing pretty well and managed to stay awake until 9:30pm. We both woke up at 2am, hoping it was already 5 or 6am, but fell back asleep until a respectable 7am (for me) and 8am (for Trevor). This morning, I decided to take some pictures of the apartment and the views from the apartment to share.
The Dining Room:
View from the kitchen:
Close-up of the Ministere de la France d'Outre-Mer:
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